PATIS TESORO, known as the Grand Dame of Philippine fashion, is orchestrating a vision of what Filipiniana is today in a benefit fashion show presented by the Zonta Club Alabang.
At a preview on Oct. 8 at the Yuchengco Museum in Makati, she offered a glimpse of what is in store, showing eight of the 100 pieces, showcasing piña fabric, natural dyes, and elegant tropical designs, which make up the collection called “Filipiniana is Forever.”
There are colorful dasters or house dresses, a preferred everyday garment of the fashion icon, but elevated via handwoven details, patchwork, and hand embroidery. Meanwhile, the Maria Clara-esque gowns, a more formal version of the baro’t saya, will clearly be the highlights of the collection.
The kimona jackets with intricate patterns and vibrant colors catch the eye. For men, hand-painted barongs add a splash of personality to what is usually plain beige formal wear.
Whether the prints on the fabrics are floral or geometrical, the embroidered details on each piece give them texture — even the headwear range from thick and dazzling to light and diaphanous.
For Ms. Tesoro, the phrase “Filipiniana is forever” is one she will stand by with a passion, it also being the title of a coffee table book and documentary about her which were released earlier this year.
“It is part of our culture to wear embellished clothes. Western clothes are, give or take, plain, because that is their culture. Our culture is full of burloloy (ornaments), even our houses. We cannot get away from that. We also have to continue it because it basically gives a lot of work to our people,” she said at the preview.
This collection is the first that she is presenting in a fashion show in over two years.
It’s become difficult to build a full collection, with many pieces getting sold out as soon as she finishes making them.
“It’s my first fashion show in years, so it’s a lot of stress. I thought I would not anymore have this stress at my age — I’m in my 70s now — but Zonta persuaded me to do this,” Ms. Tesoro said.
Most importantly, the show is set to raise funds for the projects of the Zonta Club of Alabang. These include prenatal screening for hepatitis B, an equine therapy program for young, underprivileged cancer patients, ballet outreach for indigenous children, and educational programs for the early detection of breast cancer.
Aside from proceeds from the ticket sales to the benefit fashion show going to these initiatives, Ms. Tesoro herself also represents the club’s advocacy of women empowerment, according to its president, Kathleen Liechtenstein.
“Women empowerment informs all our projects. Patis is the very embodiment of this,” she said at the preview. “In all her endeavors, she has contributed to empowering women from artisanal communities. Her team, for example, is made up of 90% women.”
For Ms. Tesoro, “Filipiniana is Forever” is a summation of her life’s work. “I wanted to emphasize the beauty of handmade things. About 95% of the collection is handmade. Fabrics are handwoven, hand painted, hand embroidered, hand beaded,” she said.
She was also inspired by the idea of a woman’s nape subtly peeking from behind the traditional baro or lightweight embroidered blouse.
“When you are Filipino, you are attractive when you wear the baro’t saya. Characteristically, it is folded at the back to show the nape. It’s very sensual. It is also an evolving, wearable piece of art,” she explained.
Her process consists of “piling on layers of details like notes of a crescendo,” which comes together as she sees the materials.
“All Filipinos aspire to dress in a sheer handwoven piña or what resembles it. Our climate and environment necessitate this mode of dress. I wanted to show daily wear to formal wear, focusing on the craftsmanship and artistry of our people,” Ms. Tesoro said.
However, she jokingly warned the Zonta guests and the media that “no one should be buried in piña.”
“It’s just too expensive. You can show your body in piña, but then before you get buried, maghubad ka muna (take off your clothes first),” she said. “That’s my suggestion.”
“Filipiniana is Forever” will be presented on Nov. 4 at the Grand Ballroom of the Hyatt BGC in Taguig. Tickets are available via https://qlickpass.com/ and the e-mail zontaclubofalabang1@gmail.com. — Brontë H. Lacsamana